Tournament Surf Z35T conversion
The Tournament Surf Z35T is a casting reel without drag, meaning the spool does not contain drag washers and there is no drag knob. In this article, I will show how to convert it to include a drag system, which is nothing more than replacing the main shaft assembly, spool and spool knob. The info below applies to all Procaster 35 models. I also added custom spool wraps to this set, giving them a really nice look.
What you will need
Required new parts:
- 3000-5000 series main shaft (E33-3901)
- Click leaf spring holder (E12-2301)
- Click leaf spring (B74-7701)
- Spool washer (E14-6502)
- Line lay washers
- 3000-5000 series (or custom) spool
- 3000-5000 series (or custom) drag knob
Required tools and equipment:
- Philips screwdriver PH1
- Flat screwdrivers
- 14 mm open-ended spanner
- Jet flame lighter
- Needle-nose pliers
- Tweezers
- Reel oil
- 1,5 mm allen key
How to convert
In this case, the reels were in near-new condition, so no maintenance was needed, allowing a quick conversion method to be used. However, the Z35Ts are known for having thread-lock applied to the oscillation pawl screws. These will likely need heating before removal, and in that case it’s preferable to take off the side cover first. So in practice, this still means taking the reel apart.
Disassembly
Start by removing the handle. Hold the rotor and unscrew the handle towards you. Next, take off the spool, spool washer and main shaft washer. Then remove the rotor nut holding plate and undo the rotor nut with a 14 mm box spanner or open-ended spanner, turning it anti-clockwise. The rotor can now be lifted off. Next, remove the rear cover and rubber gasket, followed by the left side cover. Finally, take out the drive gear to gain full access to the oscillating slider.
Removing the main shaft
This is where things get tricky. First try loosening the screws carefully without damaging the heads. If they won’t budge, do not force them. Instead, apply heat to break down the thread-lock. First, position the slider in the middle position to keep it away from plastic parts. Use a jet flame lighter with a small flame (a Clipper lighter works well). Heat one screw for around 5 seconds, then undo it with a PH1 screwdriver or flathead screwdriver, applying firm pressure while turning. A screwdriver with good grip is essential. If it won’t budge, reheat briefly and try again. If the head starts to lift out but then binds again, you can carefully grip it with pliers and turn it out. Repeat for the second screw. Once both are out, the hardest part is done and the main shaft can be removed.
Disassembly to access the screws
Heat briefly to break the thread-lock
Reassembly
Lightly oil the new main shaft with reel oil. Slide the rotor nut onto the shaft, then pass it through the rotor. The rotor nut will now sit between the shaft and rotor. Insert the shaft with the rotor and rotor nut into the slider. Do not fit the rotor to the pinion gear yet. Make sure the bearing washer between the ball bearing and rotor is still in place. Secure the main shaft using new screws. If using Gato screws, a 1.5 mm Allen key is required. Reinstall the drive gear, ensuring the spring is correctly positioned in the anti-reverse pawl recess. Refit the side cover, then place the rotor onto the pinion gear and tighten the rotor nut with a 14 mm open-ended spanner, as a box spanner will not fit over the new wide shaft head. Reinstall the rotor nut holding plate, followed by the rear cover with gasket. Finally, refit the handle.
New spool parts
Fit the click leaf spring into the holder by placing the bump into the small slot first, then pushing both ends into the wider slot. Slide the line lay washer(s) onto the main shaft, followed by the click leaf spring holder and the spool washer on top. Finally, mount the new spool and drag knob and the conversion is complete. I used the TS5000T drag knobs, as the colours match the look of the Z35T really well.
For these reels, one additional adjustment was needed. To keep them as close to original as possible, I wanted silver spools. If you go for this option, you can choose SS-3000 spools or custom spools. I went for Weston spools because they are easy to get, look great, and feature high-impact line stops and a sturdy click plate. However, the Z35T magnesium rotor differs slightly in dimensions from the aluminium 3000–5000 rotors. Together with the slightly larger Weston spools, this causes the line roller to sit very tightly against the spool, creating resistance. The simplest solution is to remove both line rollers by loosening the roller shaft nut, removing the rollers, and reassembling. The line guard system is then disabled, but the reels will never suffer from the infamous coffee grinding sound again.
Reassembling the reel with the new main shaft
The line rollers sit quite tightly
Line lay adjustment
There is a good chance you will need to add or remove line lay washers to adjust the spool height, ensuring the line lay is correct. See this article on how to correct your line lay.
New spool wraps
The Z35T (and Z45T) reels are perhaps slightly less eye-catching than other Tournament models. They were originally supplied with silver aluminium spools featuring the spool “wrap” printed directly onto them. When replacing the spools, I wanted to keep the silver look and use new wrap stickers inspired by the originals, which I felt were a bit visually plain. From there, I started working on a new design based on the SS-35 wrap, which has a more refined appearance while incorporating elements from the original Z35T spool design. Another distinctive feature of the Z35T is its holographic side decals, which I also wanted to reflect in the spool wrap. I asked Ian at The Signshop Kent to bring the idea to life, and he did an excellent job using built-up tactile UV printing on holographic material. The result is a visually striking wrap that, in my opinion, significantly improves the overall look of the reel.
