Maintenance & care

This service guide was put together with Gato Custom Reels, combining practical advice with hands-on servicing experience. It’s written specifically for the reels featured in the Cult Series section. Whether you’re servicing a reel for the first time or have done it before, there’s plenty here to help you keep your reels in good working order.

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Tools and supplies

Reel servicing

Disassembly

Before you begin

Stripping down to the internals

Removing the last components

Rotor assembly stripdown

Cleaning

Removing the bulk of grease and dirt

Further cleaning with brushes

Rinsing and drying

Cleaning ball bearings

Inspection & Wear

Wear on the worm shaft

Wear on the oscillating pawl

Wear on the pinion gear

Wear on the drive gear

Other parts

Reassembly

Types of oils and greases

Applying oil and grease

Reinstalling the anti-reverse components

Reinstalling the worm shaft

Reinstalling the pinion gear

Reinstalling main shaft

Reinstalling the drive gear

Fitting the remaining parts

Final checks

…

Common issues

Retrieve

…

Anti-reverse

…

Bail and line roller

…

Drag system

…

Replacement parts

How to get them

Spare parts to keep

Care & storage

Service projects

A note before you start: Some technial understanding is recommended before working on a reel. If you’re new to it, take your time and practise on one or two cheap reels first, where making a few mistakes won’t matter too much. Good luck!

Tools & supplies

While some tasks need specialist tools, the list below will be fine for most maintenance jobs. Screwdrivers are your main tools, so it’s worth investing in decent ones. The optional tools are very useful if you service reels often, as they make things a bit easier.

Essential tools

Philips screwdrivers (PH0 & PH1)
Flathead screwdrivers
14 mm open-ended spanner
Needle-nose pliers
Tweezers
Fine awl
Jet lighter (for some reels)
Sandpaper (medium to fine)

Large and small trays
14 mm box spanner
Bearing removal tool
Bearing puller tool
Plastic spudgers
Small brush for applying grease
Needle bottles for oiling
Bearing lubrication tool
Rotary sanding tool
Caliper

Optional tools

Cotton buds
Kitchen roll / old rags
Reel cleaner
WD-40
Tooth brushes
Reel cleaning brushes
Brass wire brushes
Tubs for cleaning ball bearings
Ultrasonic cleaner (optional)

Cleaning supplies

Reel oil (bearings and moving parts)
Grease (gears and high-load moving parts)
Drag grease (specifically for drag washers)
Bearing oil (optional)
Shimano DG14 line roller grease (optional)

Oil and lubricants

Reel servicing

This guide walks you through a full reel service step by step, from stripping the reel down and cleaning and inspecting its components to lubricating and reassembling everything. It’s a general guide that applies to all reels in the Cult Series section. If you’re just giving your reel a quick service or fixing a specific issue, you can skip the steps you don’t need.

Disassembly

Before you begin

Make sure you have everything you need ready before getting started. Cover your work surface with old newspaper to protect it from grease and dirt, and use trays to keep parts organised. Keep track of how everything comes apart and take plenty of photos as you go.

Before taking the reel apart, give it a quick check over. Turn the handle while paying attention to any unusual noises and how smoothly it turns. Check that the anti-reverse works correctly, the drag operates smoothly, the bail opens and closes as it should, and the line roller spins freely. This gives you a good idea of any issues to look out for during servicing.

How far you need to strip down the reel depends on the type of service. You don’t always need to dismantle everything. The handle, for example, can usually be left intact unless it needs attention.

Be careful: If the retrieve isn’t working correctly or makes unusual noises, before servicing or after reassembly, stop turning the handle to avoid damaging the gears or worsening existing damage. Never turn the handle while the reel is partially disassembled.

Stripping down to the internals

First, we need to open up the reel to gain access. Most reels are dismantled in a similar way:

Start by removing the drag knob, spool and other parts fitted to the shaft.
Remove the handle. Some handles unscrew clockwise while holding the rotor, while others require you to undo a screw on the opposite side of the body first.
Remove the rotor nut holding plate, then the rotor nut. Depending on the model, the rotor nut may have a left- or right-hand thread.
Depending on the model, you may need to detach the main shaft before removing the rotor; on others, it lifts straight off. If the rotor can’t be removed yet, pull it forward to access all the side cover screws.
If the reel has a removable rear cover and gasket, remove them as well.
Remove the left side cover to access the internals.

Drive gear removal

Carefully pull the drive gear out of the body, then remove the ball bearing from the drive gear if one is fitted. On reels with cast aluminium drive gears, the bearing is often stuck on the shaft due to corrosion. Although this can also occur with black anodised gears, it is much less common.

To free the bearing, sand the end of the shaft to remove the corrosion holding it in place. Fine sandpaper will do the job with some patience, but a Dremel with a Scotchbrite shank is much quicker. Take your time, as pulling too hard on the bearing could damage it. Be careful not to lose the drive gear washer(s) behind the bearing.

Next, carefully remove the anti-reverse pawl spring from the drive gear shaft, as bending it can stop it from working properly. Take a photo of how the spring is fitted first, so you can refit it the same way later.

Main shaft removal

The main shaft can now be removed by undoing the screw(s) securing the oscillating slider. This is usually easy, but a few models like the TS5000T and Z35T are known for their very strong thread-lock, which can make the screws difficult to remove. Damaging the screw heads can turn this into a much bigger job.

Try undoing the screws using the right screwdriver. If they won’t budge, don’t force them. Instead, position the slider halfway along its travel to keep it away from plastic parts. If you want to be extra careful, remove the right side cover as well. Use a jet flame lighter with a small flame, such as a Clipper. Heat each screw for around 5 seconds, then try undoing it, applying firm pressure as you turn. A good grip is essential. If a screw still won’t budge, briefly reheat it and try again.

With the screws removed, use tweezers to remove all components from the oscillating slider. Take care not to lose the small oscillating pawl washer, if fitted. If the rotor is still in place, it can now be removed together with the main shaft.

Be careful: if you damage the heads of the oscillation slider cover screws, you’re in trouble, as they’ll have to be drilled out.

Pinion gear removal

The next step depends on the reel design. Many smaller models, such as the SS2600, have the anti-reverse mechanism outside the body. If so, first remove the anti-reverse pawl that engages with the ratchet teeth. Be careful not to damage the small spring. You can then remove the remaining anti-reverse parts and the retaining plate. The pinion gear assembly can then be removed.

If the anti-reverse mechanism is inside the body, remove the pinion gear assembly by undoing the three bearing retainer screws and pulling it out. If the bearing is rusty, it may be difficult to remove, so take care. If necessary, tap it out from the inside, as it will probably need replacing anyway.

Don’t forget to remove the pinion holder from the body, if fitted. The pinion gear assembly can be dismantled further. Pay particular attention to how the ratchet plates and other components are fitted and take a few photos to help with reassembly.

Worm shaft removal

You can now remove all the worm shaft components. If you’re doing a quick service and there are no issues, you can leave them in place. For a full service, it’s best to remove them.

On all models, start by removing the rear cover if you haven’t already done so, either by unscrewing it or sliding it off. If the right side cover is removable, remove that as well. Next, remove the E-clip securing the worm shaft gear to the worm shaft. This can be a bit tricky. If the gear has a black almite finish, use plastic spudgers to avoid scratching it. With brass gears, a pointy awl is much quicker.

Once the E-clip is removed, take off the worm shaft retainer to free the worm shaft and its components. Depending on the model, the retainer sits inside or outside the body. Pull out the worm shaft and its components, taking care not to lose small parts such as the worm shaft washer. Take note of how the worm shaft gear is fitted, with the small raised section on the E-clip side. Finally, take out the oscillating slider. Don’t forget to remove any remaining bushes or bearings from the body.

Removing the last components

The remaining anti-reverse components can be removed if the mechanism needs attention or the body needs a thorough clean, but this is usually unnecessary. For reels with the anti-reverse mechanism inside the body, first undo the screw to remove the anti-reverse pawl components. Note how the parts and small spring are fitted. The lever is often left in place, as it can be awkward to remove. If necessary, press the cam spring in firmly while pulling the lever out. Avoid excessive force, as this can damage the body and spring.

There will now be either a bearing or a bushing in the right side of the body, or in the right side cover if removable. The bushing can be left in place, but the bearing can be removed for cleaning. Bearings can sometimes seize in their housing, but a bearing removal tool can usually tap them out without causing damage.

The body should now be empty. Check for any remaining components and keep everything in a tray to avoid losing small parts.

Be careful: Take care not to use excessive force when pressing the cam spring to remove the lever, as this can damage the body and spring.

Rotor assembly stripdown

The rotor assembly can be stripped down completely, but you can leave it assembled if there are no issues. If so, at least check the line roller.

There’s not much to dismantling the rotor, but a few things are worth keeping in mind. Some models use E-clips rather than screws to secure the bail. To avoid scratching the finish, use a plastic spudger and take your time. If the reel has a line guard system, the bail covers may conceal a small spring, so take care not to lose it. The bail arm is also under spring tension, so note the spring position during disassembly.

The line roller is easy to remove by undoing the line roller screw. Pay close attention to how the parts are fitted.

It’s also worth checking the spool drag washers, which are covered in a separate guide linked at the end of the article.

Cleaning

Now it’s time to remove any old grease, dirt and other contaminants. As this guide covers a full reel service, every component will be thoroughly cleaned. For a quick service, of course, there’s no need to go that far.

Removing the bulk of grease and dirt

Start by removing the bulk of the grease and dirt. Cotton buds and kitchen roll are ideal for this. For larger bores, simply roll up a piece of kitchen roll and pull it through to clean out the inside. Make sure you have a large tray ready for the next step.

Further cleaning with brushes

You can then use a reel cleaner to spray the parts. Penn Reel Cleaner works very well. Apply it and scrub the parts thoroughly with a toothbrush. The cleaner can splash a little, so it’s worth protecting your clothing and the surrounding area. Some areas are difficult to reach with a toothbrush, such as pinion gear bores, the oscillating slider and body cavities. Specialist bore brushes are available for these. Particular attention should be paid to the gears and worm shaft, as these tend to retain more grease and dirt than other components. They can be rinsed with water between rounds of cleaning, followed by another application of reel cleaner and further brushing if needed.

Cast aluminium drive gears, such as those found in Emblem models, often have a soft coating on the inside. This coating can be easily rubbed off, so grease should be removed carefully using cotton buds and kitchen roll to preserve it as much as possible. The gear teeth themselves should still be brushed thoroughly.

If you’re dealing with corrosion, you may need to use wire brushes. Brass wire brushes are a good option, as brass is relatively soft and less likely to scratch the surface. However, when brushing a stainless steel main shaft, don’t use an old brush that has been used on ordinary steel, as it can leave steel particles on the surface that may cause further corrosion.

If you’re aiming for a truly thorough clean, an ultrasonic cleaner can be used after this. However, only put in clean metal and rubber components, avoiding painted or labelled parts such as the body, spool and handle. It’s also important to choose the correct cleaning solution.

Rinsing and drying

The parts can then be rinsed with water. Start with hot water (around 70°C), followed by a cold-water rinse. You can rinse them directly under the tap, but small components can easily go down the plughole, so using a tray of cold water is a safer option. If you use a tray, change the water regularly, as grease and dirt will quickly start floating on the surface. Allow everything to dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours in a warm, dry place indoors.

Cleaning ball bearings

These require a slightly different approach. The bearings used in these reels are often sealed, so they can’t be taken apart. Start by brushing them with reel cleaner, then flush them thoroughly with WD-40 to remove as much old grease and dirt as possible. Leave them to soak in a container of WD-40 for around 24 hours. Afterwards, rinse them with water and, ideally, dry them immediately using compressed air. It’s important that the bearings are completely dry before relubricating them. Once relubricated, check that each bearing runs smoothly. If in doubt, replace it.

One important point to note when cleaning bearings is that they are factory-greased. The method described above removes this grease and replaces it with oil, so they may not perform quite as well as they did when new. For this reason, only use this method on bearings that aren’t running smoothly. If a bearing is still performing well, simply applying a small amount of bearing oil may be the better option.

Inspection & wear

Once everything has been cleaned, inspect the components for wear or damage. Most wear is the result of normal use over time, but incorrect assembly or poor maintenance can speed up the wear process considerably. Replace any badly worn or damaged parts before reassembly. Keep track of anything you notice during the inspection, as it may help identify the cause if issues arise after servicing.

That said, there are a few parts that are particularly prone to wear and may need replacing if you notice the following:

Wear on worm the shaft

A worm gear oscillation system is a precision mechanism, with tight tolerances needed for everything to run smoothly. The worm shaft is particularly sensitive, so poor maintenance or incorrect assembly can quickly lead to problems. Here are a few things to look out for:

Deep vertical scratches: Deep scratches on the thick groove sections indicate a past jam. Especially when an oscillating washer is missing, the pawl has too much play and ends up scratching the shaft, which can eventually cause a jam.
Groove and intersection defects: Small pits can be an early sign that something isn’t running smoothly. If the pits in the groove walls grow larger, the pawl may eventually catch and start cutting into the shaft, leading to a jam. This is often caused by dirt or running dry.
Worn groove tracks: This can be harder to spot. Normally caused by wear over time as the pawl runs along the grooves. Look for a worn track: a thin, deeper line running down the centre of the groove pattern. On brass worm shafts, this is easier to see because the plating has clearly worn away. A thin track is normal, though.

Wear on the oscillating pawl

The pawl is also prone to wear due to its contact with the worm shaft. When viewed from above, the semicircular tip of the pawl should be symmetrical on both sides. Wear can cause one side to become more slanted than the other. This doesn’t necessarily mean the pawl needs replacing, but it’s worth considering. If the worm shaft is being replaced, it’s recommended to replace the pawl as well to prevent premature wear on the new shaft.

Wear on the worm shaft gear

Like the worm shaft itself and the oscillating pawl, the worm shaft gear is also subject to wear, as it drives the worm shaft. However, it generally wears more slowly than the other two components. Aside from prolonged use and dirt or running dry, a possible cause of wear is the gear rattling during operation. This can occur when the worm shaft has too much or too little axial play, causing the gear teeth to wear more quickly.

Wear on the pinon gear

The pinion gear is part of the drive train, transferring power from the handle to the rotor. The main shaft also runs through the pinion gear, so the fit between the two is important for smooth operation and to prevent excessive play. The pinion gear can wear in two areas:

Worn teeth: Prolonged use is the main cause of tooth wear, while dirt and running dry can accelerate it. Incorrect gear mesh between the drive gear and pinion gear can also cause accelerated wear if the gears are meshed too tightly or have too much clearance.
Excessive play in the bore: As the bore wears, the clearance around the main shaft increases, which can become noticeable when turning the handle. Corrosion on the main shaft can contribute significantly to this type of wear, while dirt can also accelerate wear inside the bore.

Wear on the drive gear

The drive gear is arguably the most wear-prone component in the reel, as its teeth are subjected to the greatest loads during power transmission. As with the pinion gear, poor gear mesh can accelerate wear considerably. The teeth may look perfectly fine to the naked eye, but closer inspection often reveals more significant wear.

One way to assess their condition is to run your finger along the sides of the teeth. They should feel smooth, not jagged or uneven. On black anodised gears, wear is also easy to spot where the black finish has worn away, exposing the bare metal underneath.

Reassembly

Now for the fun part: putting the reel back together. You can reassemble the reel by simply following the disassembly steps in reverse order. As all the old grease and oil have been removed during cleaning, it’s important to lubricate the various moving parts before reassembly. You can lubricate the bearings beforehand.

Types of oils and greases

It’s worth using good-quality lubricants. While the choice of oil is somewhat less critical, a high-quality oil becomes more important when a reel is used for fishing that involves a lot of cranking, such as pike fishing. Grease requires more care, as some types can harden completely over time and are unsuitable for spinning reels. If in doubt, it’s best to buy your lubricants from a specialist reel dealer to ensure you’re using the right products.

Oil and grease application

In general, ball bearings, bushes and the main shaft should be lubricated with reel oil. While specialised oils are available for ball bearings, standard reel oil is also suitable. Applying a drop of oil to screws can make them easier to remove in future. A needle bottle is useful for precise application. Grease should be used on the drive gear, pinion gear, worm shaft gear and worm shaft. A small amount can also be applied to the bail connections, as these are moving parts. A brush is recommended for applying grease, as it allows for greater precision than using your fingers. Specialist greases are also available for specific components. Shimano DG18, for example, is a water-repellent grease designed for line rollers. Apply a small amount around the bearing or bush. Drag washers also require specialised grease.

Below, the complete reassembly process is explained step by step, starting with a completely empty reel body.

Reinstalling the anti-reverse components

The anti-reverse goes back in first. Fit the cam spring with the open end facing down, then press the lever into the body while holding the spring in place. Check that the lever clicks smoothly between ON and OFF. If the remaining anti-reverse parts are fitted inside the body, install these now as well. Make sure the pawl spring is positioned correctly, as it should push the pawl down when the anti-reverse is set to ON. The parts can be assembled dry, although a very light film of oil can be applied for protection. Once everything is in place, check that the anti-reverse works as it should.

Reinstalling the worm shaft

First, install the worm shaft bush or bearing in the body. If a bush is fitted, apply a drop of oil to the inside. Grease the worm shaft grooves and add a little oil to both ends. Place the oscillating slider into the body, then slide the worm shaft through the slider and into position. Fit the worm shaft gear, but leave it unsecured for now. If fitted, slide the shield cover onto the worm shaft with the open side facing you and apply a light film of oil to the outside. Refit the worm shaft washer(s) if originally fitted. Next, oil and install the worm shaft collar or bearing, followed by the retainer plate to secure the worm shaft. Secure the worm shaft gear with the E-clip. A pair of long-nose pliers makes the job much easier. Don’t forget to apply grease to the worm shaft gear. Once everything is assembled, check that the worm shaft rotates smoothly. If fitted, the removable right side cover can now be reinstalled. The rear cover can be fitted as well.

Reinstalling the pinion gear

If fitted, reinstall the pinion holder and apply a few drops of oil to the inside. Grease the pinion gear teeth, then slide on the remaining parts. The exact arrangement varies between models, but if the anti-reverse is housed inside the body, start by fitting the anti-reverse ratchet onto the pinion gear. Next, install any spacing sleeve(s) and the ball bearing(s), if fitted. The assembly should always end with a ball bearing. The complete pinion gear assembly can now be fitted into the body and secured with the bearing retaining screws. If the anti-reverse is mounted outside the body, now is the time to reinstall it. Start with the retainer, followed by the ratchet and its related parts, and finish by fitting the pawl. Apart from the pinion gear and the pinion holder bush, no additional lubrication is required. Once assembled, check that the anti-reverse operates correctly by switching it between ON and OFF while turning the pinion gear.

Reinstalling the main shaft

The main shaft can now be reinstalled. If the rotor had to be removed together with the shaft, refit it now. Start by placing the pinion washer onto the bearing. Apply a light coat of oil to the main shaft and the bore of the pinion gear. To install the shaft, first slide the rotor nut onto it, then pass it through the rotor and into the oscillating slider. On some models, the rotor nut locking plate must be fitted at this stage and should be installed onto the shaft first. With the main shaft in place, the oscillation components can be fitted. Lightly oil the oscillating pawl and the nylon bush, both inside and out, then fit them together and install them into the slider. Make sure the pawl engages with the worm shaft grooves. If needed, rotate the pinion gear until the pawl drops into position. Refit the small washer, if fitted. Finally, install the slider retaining plate and secure it with one or two screws. Keep in mind that these screws are known to loosen more easily once they have been removed.

Reinstalling the drive gear

The drive gear can now be reinstalled. Start by refitting the anti-reverse spring. Apply a drop of oil to the narrowed section of the drive gear shaft, then clip the spring back into place, making sure it is positioned as originally fitted. Avoid stretching the spring too far, as it may stop working properly. Check that the spring can rotate freely. Next, apply grease to the gear teeth and lightly oil both ends of the shaft.

Refit the drive gear washers on the side opposite to the spring. If a bearing is fitted, slide it over the shaft and onto the washers. The drive gear can now be returned to the body. Make sure the gear is fully seated and the flat end of the spring is correctly positioned in the recess of the anti-reverse pawl.

Fitting the remaining parts

The body can now be closed up. Refit the left side cover, along with the rear cover and gasket if these are removable. Do not turn the handle yet, as the rotor must be refitted first.

Next, refit the rotor onto the pinion gear. If the rotor is not already on the main shaft, slide the pinion washer back over the shaft and up against the bearing first. When tightening the rotor nut, pull the pinion gear towards you to help it seat correctly. On some models, such as the SS-45, this can be more difficult because the rotor nut initially has very little thread to engage with. Carefully tapping and gently moving the rotor should help it seat into position. Tighten the rotor nut securely, making sure it finishes in a position that allows the rotor nut retaining plate to be fitted.

Once the rotor is fitted, you can refit the handle. Finally, refit the remaining components on the main shaft, making sure the washers are installed in the correct order. Refit the spool and drag knob to complete the assembly.

Be careful: Never turn the handle before the rotor is fitted to the pinion gear. The rotor pulls the pinion gear into position, and turning the handle while the pinion gear is incorrectly seated can damage the gears.

Final checks

The reel is back together, but you’re not quite done yet. Now it’s time to see how it performs, as things don’t always go to plan. If anything sounds off, stop straight away, as forcing it may damage the gears. From here, it’s largely a process of trial and error: think logically about what might be causing the problem, make adjustments and test again until it feels right.

Keep in mind anything you noticed during the service, such as bearings that didn’t feel quite right or a worm shaft with signs of wear. These observations can help you track down any problems. The ‘Common Issues’ section below can also help you identify and resolve them. A well-running reel should feel smooth, run quietly and have minimal resistance, although this depends largely on its quality and age. Older, lower-end reels will naturally feel less refined than newer, higher-end models.

Common issues

Zie hieronder de lijst met veelvoorkomende problemen, en de mogelijke oorzaken daarvan. Let op, dit is een erg algemene lijst, problemen kunnen meerdere oorzaken hebben.

Brommend of zoemend geluid tijdens draaien
Cause: incorrecte gear mesh door verkeerde shimming, slijtage van drive/pinion gear, of onvoldoende smering op de gears.
Krassend, ruw of zwaar lopen
Cause: vervuilde of beschadigde lagers. Vuil in de body. Corrosie op de main shaft.
Molen draait zwaar zonder geluid
Cause: problemen met de anti-reverse veer of bushings die weerstand geven.
Onregelmatig of schokkerig draaien
Cause: vervuiling, slechte smering, of beschadigde tanden op gears.
Speling op de spoel / wiebelende beweging
Cause: slijtage aan de worm shaft of speling op de oscillating onderdelen.
Anti-reverse werkt niet goed of slipt
Cause: verkeerd gemonteerde of versleten anti-reverse veer of clutch.
Molen voelt ‘dood’ of traag aan
Cause: te veel vet op de gears (clogging) of verkeerde smering.
Klikkend of tikkend geluid bij draaien
Cause: beschadigde tand, vuil tussen gears, of verkeerde uitlijning.
Lijnroller draait niet soepel
Cause: vastzittend lager/bush of vuil en corrosie.

Replacement parts

How to get them

Without spare parts, proper reel maintenance is not always possible, so it is important to know where to find them. As many of these reels are quite old, Daiwa no longer supplies many parts, although there are some exceptions. Besides Daiwa service and spares, there are other companies that still offer new parts, such as gatocustomreels.com. Some also sell discontinued parts obtained from donor reels, making components available that are no longer manufactured.

Besides searching online, an effective approach is to check which other reels use the same parts. This is where schematics are invaluable. Daiwa often reused the same parts across multiple models. The schematics on this site are particularly useful for that. For example, if a worm shaft is needed for an SS-35 (part number E33-5901), it can be found in reels with a 35 mm stroke and bushings. The two largest Longbeam and Emblem sizes share these two features and therefore use this part number. An inexpensive donor reel, such as an X5500T, may provide the part needed. Just make sure the donor reel is still in good condition. The same approach works for gears, handles and other components.

Keep in mind that part numbers in schematics may differ even when the parts remain interchangeable. So do not rely solely on exact part number matches. If the numbers are very similar, particularly when only the final digit differs, the parts will often be compatible. In some cases, even upgraded parts with completely different part numbers will fit. However, with bail assemblies, the complete assembly may need to be replaced rather than just the individual component.

Finally, some companies specialise in replacement parts and refurbished components for older reels, including rotors, drag knobs and spools. These help keep classic reels running when original parts are no longer manufactured. Hopefully, this trend will continue, allowing us to enjoy our beloved reels for many years to come.

Spare parts to keep

Omdat ze slijtgevoelig zijn
Omdat ze vitaal zijn en mochten de parts ooit niet meer leverbaar zijn

Care & storage

Care
Molenonderhoud is maar eens per seizoen nodig bij veel gebruik, gebruik je ze niet zo vaak, dan zelfs nog minder. Maar het is wel goed om af en toe je molens wat te smeren op de snelle manier. Een druppel olie op …

Een reel guard is een spray die je preventief elk kwartaal aanbrengt met
een droge doek. Stukje zorg voor je materiaal zeg maar. Zo’n reel guard
beschermt tegen vuil en water.

Storage Tips
How you store your reels matters just as much as how you use them. Especially when youve got some mint cult classics, you want to keep them in the best condition. Mint the following things after use or for long term storing:
– Always loosen the drag when not using
– Let them dry thoroughly, outside the holdall etc.
– Store in a dry, cool place
– Avoid direct sunlight
– Use reel covers for protection

Service projects

Will be added in the future.

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