Maintenance & care

Reel maintenance is essential to keep your reels performing as they should. While you can leave it to a specialist, many classic Daiwa reels are easy to service with some technical understanding. Their internal mechanisms are also fascinating and give a better understanding of how they work. Although an initial investment is required, the costs are relatively low and quickly pay for themselves.

This guide is intended for beginners. It provides general maintenance advice and servicing tips for the reels featured in the Cult Series section of this website. Links to service projects for specific models will be added below in time.

Lastly, if you feel hesitant about opening up your trusted reels for the first time, start with an inexpensive reel to practise on, so mistakes don’t matter too much. Good luck!

Tools & supplies

While some tasks need specialist tools, the list below will be fine for most maintenance jobs. Screwdrivers are your main tools, so it’s worth investing in decent ones as cheap tools will only end in frustration. The optional tools are very useful if you service reels often, as they make things a bit easier.

Essential tools

Philips screwdrivers (PH0 & PH1)
Flathead screwdrivers
14 mm open-ended spanner
Needle-nose pliers
Tweezers
Fine awl
Jet lighter (for some reels)
Sandpaper (medium to fine)

Optional tools

Large and small trays
14 mm box spanner
Bearing removal tool
Bearing puller tool
Spudger tool set
Small brush for applying grease
Needle bottles for oiling
Bearing lubrication tool
Rotary sanding tool

Cleaning supplies

Cotton buds
Kitchen roll / old rags
Reel cleaner
WD-40
Tooth brushes
Reel cleaning brushes
Ultrasonic cleaner (optional)

Oils and lubricants

Reel oil (bearings and moving parts)
Grease (gears and high-load moving parts)
Drag grease (specifically for drag washers)
Bearing oil (optional)
Shimano DG14 line roller grease (optional)

Reel servicing

Before taking the reel apart, check its current condition. Turn the handle with and without the anti-reverse engaged. Check that the drag works correctly, the bail opens and closes smoothly, and the line roller rotates freely. This will usually give you a good indication of what to look out for before proceeding. However, if the retrieve is not functioning correctly, take extra care, as turning the handle may worsen existing gear damage.

Disassembling

As for tools, make sure you have PH0, PH1 and flathead screwdrivers at hand, plus a 14 mm open-ended spanner. A box spanner is usually easier to use, but it won’t always fit over the main shaft head on some models. Tweezers are essential for handling small components, and pliers can help when extra grip is needed. Lay down some old newspaper to protect the work surface from grease and dirt. A selection of trays is useful for keeping parts organised. Taking clear photos during disassembly will also make reassembly much easier. The level of disassembly depends on your goal; not everything needs to be fully stripped down, but a full service will require complete disassembly. Before you start, a word of warning: never turn the handle while the reel is partially disassembled, as this can easily damage the gears.

Initial strip-down & rotor removal

The disassembly sequence is generally much the same for many reels. Start by removing the spool and handle. If the reel has a removable rear cover, remove that as well. The rotor can then be removed by first undoing the rotor nut holding plate and then the rotor nut. On some models, the main shaft must be detached before the rotor can be removed; on others, the rotor lifts straight off. Remove the side cover to gain full access to the internals.

The rotor assembly can be dismantled further if required, although this is not always necessary. Some bail assemblies are secured with E-clips, which can be difficult to remove without scratching the finish. Use plastic tools like a spudger to avoid damage. The bail arm can also be removed easily, but be aware that it is under spring tension. Make sure you note how the spring is fitted for later reassembly.

Drive gear

Take out the drive gear. Carefully remove the spring from the drive gear shaft, as it bends easily and may no longer function correctly if distorted. Note its position before removal. On reels with cast aluminium drive gears, the drive gear bearing is often seized to the shaft due to corrosion. Sand the shaft end until the bearing can be removed. A Dremel with a suitable attachment makes this much easier. Black Almite drive gears do not usually have this problem.

Main shaft

The main shaft can now be removed by undoing the one or two screws securing the oscillation slider. Some reels use threadlock on these screws, making them difficult to remove and increasing the risk of damaging the heads. Do not force them. Instead, use a jet lighter to break the threadlock. Remove all components from the oscillation slider. If the rotor has not already been removed, it can now be taken off together with the main shaft.

Pinion gear assembly

The next step depends on the reel design. Some reels like the SS2600 have the anti-reverse mechanism outside the body. If so, remove this first. The pinion gear assembly can then be removed by undoing the three screws. If the bearing is rusty, removal may be difficult, so work carefully. If necessary, tap it out from the inside, as the bearing will probably need replacing anyway. Do not forget to remove the pinion holder from the body. The pinion gear assembly can be dismantled further; pay particular attention to the position of the ratchet plates and take photos for reference.

Worm gear oscillation

The worm shaft gear is retained by an E-clip, which can be awkward to remove. If the gear has a Black Almite finish, use plastic tools to avoid scratching it. For brass gears, an awl is often quicker. After removing the worm shaft gear, take out the worm shaft retainer from the rear of the reel, then withdraw the worm shaft and its components. Watch out for small parts such as the worm shaft washer. The oscillation slider can then be removed.

Remaining body components

If the anti-reverse mechanism is located inside the body, it can be dismantled, although this is not always necessary unless it is very dirty or the body needs thorough cleaning. Remove the pawl and related components, followed by the lever. To remove the lever, press the spring in firmly while pulling it out. Take care not to use excessive force, as this can damage the body. On the right-hand body side there will be either a bearing or a bushing. The bushing can be left in place, but bearings should often be cleaned. Bearings can sometimes seize in the side cover. A bearing removal tool can usually tap them out easily without damaging either the bearing or the cover. Check carefully for any small parts, such as the pinion holder or worm shaft bush, still left in the body.

Final teardown

At this point, disassembly is essentially complete. The handle can be fully dismantled if required, although this is usually unnecessary unless there are issues. Servicing the drag system in the spool is often worthwhile, but it is covered separately via a link at the end of the article.

Cleaning

Old grease, dirt and other contaminants should be removed thoroughly for the best results. Depending on the condition of the reel, you can choose between a quick or thorough clean. If the reel needs it, I’d recommend cleaning everything properly while it is already dismantled. During cleaning is also a good time to inspect the components for wear. If any issues arise after reassembly, your observations during servicing may help identify the cause. If you are aiming for a truly thorough clean, you may want to use an ultrasonic cleaner. However, take care to clean only metal and rubber components, avoid painted or labelled parts such as the body, spool, and handle. It is also important to choose the correct cleaning solution.

Removing the bulk of the grease and dirt

Now start by removing the bulk of the grease and dirt. Cotton buds and kitchen roll are best suited for this. Make sure you have a large tray ready for the next step.

Further cleaning with brushes and reel cleaner

You can then use a reel cleaner to spray down the parts. I usually use Penn reel cleaner, which works very well. Spray it on and brush thoroughly. Be mindful of where you do this and what you are wearing, as it can splash a little. A toothbrush is suitable for most components. Some areas are difficult to reach with a toothbrush, such as pinion gear bores, the oscillation slider, and body cavities, to name a few. For these, specialist bore brushes are available. There are some components I always clean very thoroughly, especially the gears and the worm shaft. You can rinse these in between with water, reapply reel cleaner, and brush again if needed. Cast aluminium drive gears, such as those found in Emblem models, often have a soft internal coating. I’m not entirely sure what its exact function is. This can easily be worn away, so I usually remove grease carefully with a cotton bud and kitchen roll instead, to preserve the coating as much as possible. The teeth themselves should still be brushed thoroughly.

Rinsing and drying

After that, the parts can be rinsed with water, optionally starting with hot water (around 70°C), followed by a cold water rinse. Personally, I usually rinse them straight under the tap. It is not quite as thorough, but much quicker. Be aware that small components can easily be lost down the sink when rinsing under running water, so using a tray of water can be a safer option. If you do, make sure to change the water regularly. Allow everything to dry thoroughly, as this is very important. I usually leave parts to dry for at least 24 hours in a dry, warm place indoors.

Cleaning ball bearings

Cleaning ball bearings requires a slightly different approach. Larger bearings are often sealed but some can be disassembled, although I do not do this myself. I prefer a simpler method: first clean them with reel cleaner using a brush. Then flush them thoroughly with WD-40 to remove as much dirt as possible, and leave them to soak in a container of WD-40 for around a day. Afterwards, rinse them well with water and, ideally, dry them immediately using compressed air. It is important that the bearings are completely dry. After relubrication, assess whether the bearing is still fit for use, if in doubt, replace it.

Reassembling

Now the enjoyable part begins: reassembly. You can rebuild the reel by following the steps in reverse order. Since all old lubrication has been removed during cleaning, it is important to re-lubricate the various moving parts.

Oil & grease application

In general, ball bearings, bushes and the main shaft should be lubricated with reel oil. The oscillating slider components should also be oiled, as they typically contain a bush. While specialised oils are available for ball bearings, standard reel oil is usually sufficient. I also apply a small amount of oil to the screws to make future removal easier.

For the main gears (drive gear, pinion gear and worm shaft gear) and the worm shaft, grease should be used. This does not apply to the anti-reverse ratchet, which should be installed dry. As a rule, less is more—apply lubricant only to the gear teeth. Lightly grease the worm shaft along the grooved sections, but do not apply grease to the ends, as these sit in bushes or bearings and should be lubricated with oil instead. I also apply a small amount of grease around the bail connections, as these are moving parts. A brush is recommended for application, as it allows for much greater precision than using your fingers.

For line rollers, a specialised grease Shimano DG18 is available. This is a water-repellent grease designed specifically for line rollers and has the advantage of lasting longer than oil. Apply a small amount around the bearing or bush. Drag washers also need special greases.

Checking

Once reassembled, it’s time to see how the reel performs, but only when fully built, as the rotor pulls the pinion gear into its correct position. Turning the handle without the rotor can quickly cause damage. If anything sounds off, stop straight away, as forcing it may damage the gears. Instead, diagnose the issue, adjust, and test again until it feels right. Pay attention to both sound and feel; this becomes easier with experience. A well-functioning reel should run smoothly, quietly, and with minimal resistance, although this depends strongly on its quality and age. Older, lower-end reels will naturally feel less refined than newer, higher-end models.

Common reel issues

Zie hieronder de lijst met veelvoorkomende problemen, en de mogelijke oorzaken daarvan. Let op, dit is een erg algemene lijst, problemen kunnen meerdere oorzaken hebben.

Brommend of zoemend geluid tijdens draaien
Cause: incorrecte gear mesh door verkeerde shimming, slijtage van drive/pinion gear, of onvoldoende smering op de gears.
Krassend, ruw of zwaar lopen
Cause: vervuilde of beschadigde lagers. Vuil in de body. Corrosie op de main shaft.
Molen draait zwaar zonder geluid
Cause: problemen met de anti-reverse veer of bushings die weerstand geven.
Onregelmatig of schokkerig draaien
Cause: vervuiling, slechte smering, of beschadigde tanden op gears.
Speling op de spoel / wiebelende beweging
Cause: slijtage aan de worm shaft of speling op de oscillating onderdelen.
Anti-reverse werkt niet goed of slipt
Cause: verkeerd gemonteerde of versleten anti-reverse veer of clutch.
Molen voelt ‘dood’ of traag aan
Cause: te veel vet op de gears (clogging) of verkeerde smering.
Klikkend of tikkend geluid bij draaien
Cause: beschadigde tand, vuil tussen gears, of verkeerde uitlijning.
Lijnroller draait niet soepel
Cause: vastzittend lager/bush of vuil en corrosie.

Replacement parts

This is a very important aspect, as without spare parts you cannot always carry out proper reel maintenance. With older reels, it is quite common that Daiwa no longer supplies certain parts, although there are some exceptions, such as the Tournament models, for which some parts are still available. Besides Daiwa service and spares, there are other companies that still offer new parts, such as gatocustomreels.com.

If not, you will need to source them elsewhere. Besides searching online, a very effective method is to check which other reels use the same parts. This is where schematics are invaluable. Daiwa often reused the same parts across multiple models.I recommend using the schematics on this site. For example, if you are looking for a worm shaft for a Procaster GS-35 (part number E33-5901), you will find it is used in 35 mm stroke reels running on bushings. Models such as the larger sized Longbeams and Emblems share these characteristics and use the same part number. If you can find an inexpensive donor reel, such as an X5500T, you are sorted, just make sure it is still in good condition. The same applies to line rollers, handles etc.

Keep in mind that part numbers in schematics may change, but the parts are often still interchangeable. So do not rely solely on exact matches; if the numbers are very similar, especially with only the last digit different, the part will usually fit. An example, the

Care & storage

Care
Molenonderhoud is maar eens per seizoen nodig bij veel gebruik, gebruik je ze niet zo vaak, dan zelfs nog minder. Maar het is wel goed om af en toe je molens wat te smeren op de snelle manier. Een druppel olie op …

Een reel guard is een spray die je preventief elk kwartaal aanbrengt met
een droge doek. Stukje zorg voor je materiaal zeg maar. Zo’n reel guard
beschermt tegen vuil en water.

Storage Tips
How you store your reels matters just as much as how you use them. Especially when youve got some mint cult classics, you want to keep them in the best condition. Mint the following things after use or for long term storing:
– Always loosen the drag when not using
– Let them dry thoroughly, outside the holdall etc.
– Store in a dry, cool place
– Avoid direct sunlight
– Use reel covers for protection

Service projects

Will be added in the future.